Looking back over my 50 reviews of 2009, it was tough to choose the 10 best restaurants.

When we first ran this best-of column a decade ago, I limited my praise to five. But this year, I'm naming 10, just because so many of the established restaurants are going gangbusters and some excellent new restaurants brought fresh ideas to the scene.

Le Club Chasse et Pêche: My best all-round restaurant pick for this year is Le Club Chasse et Pêche.

A longtime favourite, Le Club offers a stellar dining experience, either in its cool and comfortable dining room at dinner, or, in summer, its beautiful terrasse behind the Château de Ramezay. The combination of talents of chef Claude Pelletier, maitre d' Hubert Marsolais, pastry chef Masami Waki and wine staff under the lead of sommelier Philippe Boisvert resulted in two picture-perfect meals for me last July. As for the food, not only is it artistically assembled, but masterfully prepared. When I last reviewed the restaurant three years ago, I was already an admirer. But everything seems sharper now, more luxurious, and the staff is just so passionate and confidant. I'm in love.

Au Pied de Cochon: I wasn't in love with Au Pied de Cochon the last time I dined there, four years ago. Though lauded by most every food writer for resuscitating Québécois cuisine, this Plateau favourite seemed discombobulated.

But this year, I experienced a restaurant in full control. Yes, it's noisy, the food is rich, the scene is bustling and the background music blares, but what pleases here most is the wild and wonderful food, which ranges from the classic salmon tartare and roast guinea hen to the outrageous tripe pizza and braised pigs' feet with foie gras. The wine list is inspired and the service is sharp. I don't eat here often, but when I do, it's an experience.

Jun-i: Now if I could, I would eat at Jun-i as often as possible. Chef Junichi Ikematsu works expertly behind the sushi bar of his 50-seat restaurant, and the room always has a quiet buzz. Foodies flock here for inspired French/Japanese fusion dishes as well as some of the best sushi in town. And the fact that the desserts (like the chocolate macaron duo and a Mille-Crêpes cake) are so lovely speaks volumes about this chef's commitment to haute cuisine. If you can't make it for dinner here, stop by to soak up what may be the city's most civilized lunch scene.

Pintxo: Not quite bustling but always exciting, Pintxo is another favourite. This Spanish restaurant specializes in individual bouchés made with a fabulous array of high-end ingredients, including foie gras, shrimp, duck, beef and more. Chef and co-owner Alonso Ortiz has created the ideal resto for foodies who get a kick out of soigné plate presentations and offbeat flavour combinations. I swooned over every plate that hit the table and enjoyed most every bite. On top of that, the wine list is filled with interesting Spanish bottles, and the warm and artsy decor makes you want to linger.

Il Mulino: When I think of warm, inviting restaurants, though, nothing this year beat Il Mulino.

Well-known as the restaurant with the yellow awning in Little Italy, Il Mulino merited a four-star rating for chef Tony De Rose's classic Italian cuisine and his partner Aniello Covone's hospitality. Though the restaurant is now for sale (De Rose is ready to retire), I won't soon forget the feather-light gnocchi, the delectable pastas, the perfect bruschetta, the simple desserts. ...

XO Le Restaurant: Another meal I will never forget is the one I enjoyed last winter at XO Le Restaurant. If any restaurant merits the "most improved" award, this is it. And how nice to have a seriously fancy restaurant in the city to celebrate that BIG occasion. Recently renovated, this posh palace is hard to beat, not only because it's so beautiful, but because the food is wonderfully fresh and inventive. Chef Michele Mercuri uses the best local ingredients to create stunning plates rich in colour, texture and diverse flavours. Service is fantastic, and everything here from the silverware to the sound system is nec-plus-ultra. Snazzy.

Mas Cuisine: Far less swish but equally impressive are three new chef-owned restaurants that do everything right. The first, Mas Cuisine, came as no surprise because chef-owner Michel Ross was already a star at the now defunct Brunoise. His new place is small (28 seats) and off the beaten track (in Verdun). The decor is pretty bare bones, but the food is modern and elaborate. Prices are low, thanks to the lack of glitz and pricey ingredients. The wine list, though short, is inspired and affordable. A terrific choice for foodies on a budget, this appealing little resto is even less expensive at lunch.

Le St-Urbain: The second new place to wow is Le St-Urbain. Located in Ahuntsic, Le St-Urbain is owned by chef Marc-André Royal, who has worked in many top restaurants here and abroad. The ever-changing menu is market driven, and the style of cuisine is more soigné than strictly bistro. The space last housed a fruit store, and in just a few short months has become wildly popular. Reservations are still hard to come by. The ambience is electric! On top of that, the wine list is well-chosen and fairly priced (with many by-the-glass offerings) and service is friendly and professional. Love it.

Salute: Over on Laurier Ave. came Salute, where chef Angelo Baggio is back in fine form, cooking his innovative Italian fare, including excellent pastas, risottos, salads and superb meats, fish and seafood. Everything I ate here over two meals was utterly delicious, and plate presentations are sure to draw oohs and aahs. This is a fine choice for everything from a special dinner to a simple weekday lunch. Baggio has had his ups and downs in his career, so it's nice to see he's a player once again.

Macaroni Bar: Like last year, I'm also giving props to a restaurant where I had the most fun. Great food is fabulous, fine wines are always welcome, but they all mean nothing if the restaurant is as exciting as a Perry Como concert. Though some of my critic colleagues have come down hard on Macaroni Bar, I thoroughly enjoyed it.

The people-watching is great, the gnocchi poutine is better than expected, and the pizza and braised veal cheeks are simply superb. But let's be honest, what really caught my attention was the never-ending stream of '80s music, which kept me bopping between bites. I returned in the summer to find an outdoor terrasse filled with beautiful Montrealers living it up in a gorgeous garden space that had never been exploited by any of this restaurant's former tenants.

Creating that kind of ambience and energy is exactly what more Montreal restaurateurs should be thinking about to stay viable in 2010. When things are looking down, never underestimate the power of fun.

Le Club Chasse et Pêche, 423 St. Claude St., 514-861-1112. www.leclubchasseetpeche.com.

Au Pied de Cochon, 536 Duluth Ave. E., 514-281-1114. www.restaurantaupieddecochon.ca.

Jun-i, 156 Laurier Ave. W., 514-276-5864. www.juni.ca.

Pintxo, 256 Roy St. E., 514-844-0222. www.pintxo.ca.

Il Mulino, 236 St. Zotique St. E. 514-273-5776. www.ilmulino.ca.

XO Le Restaurant, 355 St. Jacques St. W. (in the St. James Hotel),  514-841-5000. www.hotellestjames.com/the-life/dining/the-restaurant.asp.

Mas Cuisine, 3779 Wellington St. 514-544-3779. www.mascuisine.com.

Le St-Urbain, 96 Fleury St. W., 514-504-7700. www.lesturbain.com.

Salute, 234 Laurier Ave. W., 514-273-9378.